Monday, October 18, 2010

FOTA HOUSE & GARDENS....CORK

Wednesday, day 3 and my personal tour guides arrived to take me to Fota House & Gardens! Yes, Ted & Gary Murphy were taking me to Fota. It had been years since my last visit so I was completely surprised when they drove to Monkstown, boarded a ferry and were there in no time at all. Progress !
To be absolutely truthful, at first I simply thought we were in a traffic jam as opposed to a queue for the ferry !

Fota Island used to be a regular venue for school trips and family days out for me, but returning with the advantage of age sheds a completely different light on this magnificent place. As soon as we parked our car, I noticed throngs of kids in school buses had descended also. Had it really been that long ago since I too was a school kid. I remember wanting to get off the bus so that I could find somewhere to run wild not cherishing the idea of touring another historical home ! This time was different.

The history of Fota is intertwined with the story of the Smith Barry family whose members developed the house and estate. They first came to the area in the late 12th century as part of the Anglo-Norman invasion. We walked through the back halls and backstairs of this historical house. Meandering through this house we eventually arrived in the old kitchen, again one of my favorite places to be. There was a carousel in the middle for hanging the game brought in from the estate. In large country houses ,as much food as possible was produced at home. It had a home farm with hot houses,orchards and vegetable gardens. Huge lead-lined boxes were used for salting hams, beef and bacon. This was quite rare and is one of the signs of the outstanding quality of Fota House.

An arboretum was developed at Fota in the 1840's. It coincided with the great plant hunting expeditions that went on around the world bringing back specimens from the Orient, North West America and South America. Fota Island is very well sheltered, has a mean annual rainfall of 41 inches and has an ideal temperature range with frost being rare. A walk through these magnificent gardens is a must.

Three hours had flown by and it was time to move on. We were headed for the city. We had worked up quite an appetite and where better to eat than the 'English Market'.................

Thursday, September 30, 2010

BALLINACURRA HOUSE

Ted and Garry Murphy suggested we visit 'Ballinacurra House'. "It's just up the road" they said. This is where their son had recently had his wedding reception and they just couldn't wait for me to see this place.

When we arrived at the gates, true to it's word, it was indeed private with a security button hidden amongst the ivy. We decided Ted could do the honors !
Once inside, the drive up the avenue immediately catapulted me back to my childhood. These familiar plants were growing wild everywhere. Ferns and Fuschias in full bloom. Moss covered rocks lined the avenue given it a wooded feel.

As soon as we emerged from this wooded copse, hearing the gravel crunch beneath the tires, this bright and welcoming Irish Country mansion awaits you.

Oscar awaited us too ! Oscar was the Irish Wolfhound, a mere puppy, but to a small child, perhaps he would seem like a horse !

This prestigious 5-star estate sits on 40 acres of woodland and water. It is simply breathtaking. A mere 2 minutes from Kinsale Town, ideally located if you want to play a round of golf at the World Famous Course. 'The Old Head of Kinsale'

We were greeted by the owners Des & Lisa McGahan. They had lived in the far East for a considerable amount of time, returned to Ireland and painstakingly and lovingly restored this estate which was originally built in 1791. They explained that they were preparing for a group arriving from New York in a few days. The week before, the King Of Norway had been their guest.

What struck me most was that despite the luxurious surroundings, it had a homely feel, not the stifled feeling I have often gleaned from similar properties. Meandering through the house is like a treasure hunt. Truely it is. Each room has been individually designed. Needless to say , I ended up in the kitchen ! My favorite place in any home. The magnificent old dresser that took up the whole wall was filled with delf and I knew instantly that this farmhouse kitchen was well used. Through the kitchen windows, I could see strawberries growing along the rock wall and I couldn't help but feel the desire to work in this kitchen.

Next to the Manor House, is the 4 bedroomed stylish Coach house. If you feel the need to land your helicopter, fear not as there is a helipad nestled away for your convenience. Before I knew , it was time to leave. After thanking Des & Lisa MCgahan for their hospitality, all that remained was to seek out Oscar to bid him farewell......There we found him, on the front lawn , sleeping. After all it's a tough life here in Ballinacurra House for an Irish Wolfhound !

Reluctant to leave, somehow I knew,that I would come back..........one day !

Sunday, September 12, 2010

CAISLEAN DHEASUMHAN .... DESMOND CASTLE

Punctual as ever, Ted Murphy and his wife Gary arrived at my parents house in Rochestown to take me around Cork for the day. Born and raised in this city, I was about to see it again through a different set of eyes. We drove the picturesque twenty minutes to Kinsale. Just parking the car took me back ! We had to park on a steep hill and it reminded me of my driving test, where you had to complete hill starts and stops and parallel parking ! As soon as we began walking, people honked their horns, rolled their windows down and wanted a word with Ted. This man was well known here in Kinsale,but as the day progressed and indeed the week I learned that he was well known everywhere in Ireland. He was loved. They loved what he had done for us. He had shown people another side to the Irish.

We sauntered down the streets to Desmond Castle, or Caislean Dheasumhan as it is known as Gaeilge (in Irish), this is what you do in Kinsale, you saunter. I think if I saw someone run, then the thought running through my mind would have to be emergency or burglary! The castle is located on 'Cork Street' in Kinsale. It was built by the Earl of Desmond , AD 1500 as a Custom House and had quite a history after that. This little castle was occupied by the Spanish in 1601 and was known locally as 'The French Prison' in 1747 after a tragic fire killed 54 French Prisoners.

Now here is something of great interest that I discovered while there. During the American War of Independence, it was used by the British to house captured American Seamen. The conditions were brutal and cruel. These American Seamen were trying to stop the British from crossing the Atlantic and in doing so were taken captive. Forton Gaol near Portsmouth and Mill Gaol between Plymouth and Plymouth Dock were the Principal Prisons in England and the 'French Prison' in Kinsale served as the princiapl prison in Ireland. A Presbyterian minister from Bandon,Co Cork, Rev John Hazlitt (originally from Kent,UK) and Reuben Harvey , Glass merchant from Kinsale were among the men who offered aid to the prisoners.

John Hazlitt moved to Bandon,from Kent for a short time and from here moved to the United States. There were many prominent Irish supporters to the American's cause. Edmund Burke, Henry Grattan, Robert Stewart and Thomas Connolly to name a few. These were all Upper Class gentry. Reuben Harvey was a middle class man.
Born on September 29th 1734 in Youghal, Co Cork. Reuben was a glass merchant and indeed was noted for selling huge volumes of glass to New York.
Reuben was instrumental in offering aid and comfort to these poor unfortunate souls.

Hanging on the wall of this little castle, in the back streets of Kinsale is one of the most marvelous pieces of history. It is quite simply put.......A THANK YOU LETTER.

From President George Washington, Head Quarters, Newbourgh,NewYork
To Mr Reuben Harvey , Merchant in Cork, Kingdom of Ireland, 10/8/1783

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

DAY 2 REDISCOVERING MY IRELAND

Tuesday June 15th. This was the day I was spending with Ted Murphy, author of 'A Kingdom Of Wine' and his wife Garry. What a day it was, however I will write about the actual day itself later as I simply cannot launch straight into that without introducing you to this wonderful man.

Rewind back a few months to Dallas, Texas, where I now live. I was having lunch with the 'First Lady' of the American Ireland Fund, Netta Blanchard. I call her that! She is a force to be reckoned with and a networker unlike any I have known. Netta, spoke to me of this famous Cork Man. It wasn't until I was having a conversation with my Uncle that I discovered Ted was one of his oldest and closest friends ! These 2 had played many a rugby match together for Cork Constitution Rugby Club and were on the same team when they won the cup in 1967. So, needless to say when I discovered this about Ted Murphy, it made meeting this author even more exciting.

Ted Murphy is a dying breed in my opinion. Remember though , my opinion and a bus ticket won't get you very far at times, but nonetheless it is still my opinion ! His enthusiasm is contagious. When listening to his stories, they will carry you away and you can't help but want to hear more. He is the Honorary Chairman of The WineGeese Society of The Ireland Funds and founder of the Order of the Winegeese.

www.irlfunds.org/winegeese"

This labor of love was awarded 'Best in The World Wine History Book' by The Gourmand Awards in China in 2006. This book is a treat with a treasure trove of information that will stagger you. This is a must read and is available on www.amazon.com
I traveled with Ted and his wife Garry for 2 days and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. I laughed when he told me of his visit with to Maureen O'Hara;s home, not because of the visit but how his wife tripped on the steps up to her home and he cried "Mind The Wine". After all it was extremely good wine he was bringing to his host ! Garry's broken hand did eventually mend. Ted is a gentleman. Dressed every day in a sport coat and tie. An elegant Irish Gentleman. I am proud that he is an Irishman, A Cork Man and more importantly a friend.

Monday, August 16, 2010

DAY 1 REDISCOVERING MY IRELAND

It had been a while since I had been home so I was to say the least just a little excited. I boarded American Airlines from Chicago to Dublin and the flight was short and enjoyable. Arriving in Dublin Airport , I awaited my flight to Cork to start my adventure. The Ryan Air Flight to Cork was extremely short, 45 minutes to be precise but I have to warn you, be really careful with your baggage. It is not cheap. Would you believe it cost me almost 200 Euro in excess baggage ! Cheaper to send it cargo next time ! I find it hard to fly transatlantic to a country for 10 days with only hand luggage or a small carry on. This was my first negative experience. The staff were unfortunately extremely rude and I began to wonder if this was the new and REAL IRELAND. Thankfully, this was my only bad experience . Taking the train back to Dublin solved that problem really quickly !

Upon arriving in Cork, I was extremely jet lagged and after greeting my parents, having the all important cup of 'Barry's Tea' it was off to bed for a couple hours sleep. It was a beautiful evening. Quite literally the sun was shining and the birds were signing...crows I believe, but still birds !

It seemed only fitting on such a lovely evening to go out to eat and what better than to eat by the Atlantic Ocean. We drove a short 12 miles to my old haunt, Myrtleville. I spent many a day and indeed evening here in my teen years. This is a mere 15 miles from the City and what an oasis it is. It's so true that when you live somewhere you tend to take things for granted. Even the drive to Myrtleville made me realise this. The narrow roads were adorned with ferns, hostas and fuschias. Living in Texas,taking care of hostas can be hard work and to see them in their abundance,so lush and green made me feel so alive.

As we parked our car, I felt the urge to run to the sea like I did as a child. I hated having to get our things out of the car,find a spot on the beach,wait for my suncream to be slathered on (yes, even then my mum insisted on this!)
This time, I simply walked straight to the water. Local teenagers were milling around. The girls were hiding behind the rocks, holding towels around each other for privacy ! I remembered this well, especially clenching the towel between my teeth whilst I wrestled with my togs (swimsuit)! 22 years on and it was still the same.

The smell of the salt water just draws you in. I spotted driftwood which I longed to take back to my home in Dallas but knew customs would not be as easy as years gone by. My brother, as usual, found a dog on the beach and this was his new best friend. The familiar seaweed and rock pools reminded me of our many expeditions on the rocks looking for sea urchins,periwinkles and anything else we could lay our hands on. These were all day excursions and leaving was always sad. This day too was no different. After all we had come to Myrtleville to have dinner in the infamous 'BUNNYCONNELLANS'.Again, I did not want to leave but was hungry and so were my family.

Bunny Connellans was built in 1824. This is a well known establishment among native Corkonians. My mum told us of how she and her friends used to come to Fountainstown for the weekend and go to 'BUNNYCONNELLANS' for the music and dancing. It has stayed in the O'Brien family for quite some time now. Since being there last,I noticed they had renovated it quite extensivley but oh so tastefully.
We sat outside on the patio, perched high up on the rocks over looking the majestic Atlantic Ocean. I sat just gazing out, my family chatting away. Even now, I feel tearful writing this as I miss the simplicity and beauty of this spot. The meal was all that I could ask for and more. Simple,white, clean plates of food adorned our table. For the next 10 days I was going to eat as much seafood as I could, afterall this was the best place in the world to eat fish. BUNNYCONNELLANS did not disappoint.
I ate Pan Roasted Cod with Roasted Rosemary, presented on Spring Onion Mash with Red Onion Marmalade & Chablis Cream. A nice chilled bottle of sparklling water went nicely with this summer fare.

Sitting in this perfect silence (besides the family chatter!)I noticed there was so much going on. It was busy. Isn't this an oxymoron? Peace and serenity, yet life was happening all around. Far away in the distance was the ever watchful 'Roches Point Lighthouse' , teenagers swimming in the sea below, people walking their dogs, men canooeing , cutlery chinking on the plates and all seemed just perfect. This had been a great first day. BunnyConnellans was still the same, just new and improved. I wondered what else would be the same as I traveled through the counties including Belfast over the next 10 days.................

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

REDISCOVERING MY IRELAND

Yes, its been a while since I've written but I have good reason. I decided to go back to my roots, literally go back to my roots and visit my homeland. This was an easy trip to plan with the help of the internet and an extremely useful site. WWW.DISCOVERIRELAND.COM
This is a very well thought out site with many hidden gems. I urge you to peruse.
You know, I think we assume (on both sides of the pond !) that because we speak the same language that things will somehow be the same. WWW.DISCOVERIRELAND.COM explains everything from customs,smoking bans,pets and climate. These all help to make your vacation a great vacation.
There is a tab on this site 'PLAN YOUR VISIT'. Here is where you can plan your adventure. If you go deeper into the site, you will discover
GOLDEN TREKKER . Now here is one of those hidden gems I mentioned above. If you are over 66, wait for it.......you are entitled to free travel across the Island of Ireland on mainline and commuter trains until December 31st 2010. Yes, you read correctly, FREE TRAVEL. You can also avail of the Northern Ireland Golden Trekker until September 30th 2010. I traveled by train and will chat about that later as I write about my two week adventure.
I flew from Dallas to Chicago and from Chicago to Dublin with American Airlines.
Aer Lingus is the national airline of Ireland but unfortunately there arent any direct flights from Dallas to Ireland.
And so began my journey. Sunday June 13th I set out to quite literally rediscover Ireland and what an adventure I had...........So come join me on my visit to Ireland and hopefully it will inspire you to visit, reconnect or simply learn some things you never even knew about my REAL IRELAND.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

WHAT IS REAL ?

In this fast paced society, we are always trying to 'get ahead'. Ahead of the curve, ahead of ourselves, ahead in school and ahead in business. By trying to get ahead in business we are trying to outmaneuver our colleagues and competitors.In doing so, I think we tend to loose sight of who we truely are and what we are really and truelly about. Recently I have encountered quite a bit of interest in my business. The questions I am asked frequently...."What Is Your Brand Message?" "Why the name Rachel Gaffney's Real Ireland?" "What are your core values?" and so on. I understand the neccessity for building your brand or the architecture of your brand so that all who work with you can deliver your message . Whilst branding sessions are important,the simple message is often the best. So what is RACHEL GAFFNEY'S REAL IRELAND?

I was born in Cork City, in Southern Ireland in 1969. As a toddler I lived in Blackrock and was educated by the Ursuline nuns. I wore a navy blue uniform, with knee length socks,wore a gaberdine coat and beret for mass on Friday's. I played hockey and tennis and went on school trips abroad to France & Switzerland. On Saturday's, I took the number 7 bus into town to meet my fiends for coffee. I studied the Irish Language (which was mandatory in schools)along with Biology,Chemistry,World History and French. I was the oldest of four children and we all played an instrument. Not very well but nonetheless music was mandatory for a period of time in my home. I fought with my siblings. My younger sisters were often cramping my style and my baby brother could do no wrong ! I tried to get into bars with fake identification with my friends and loved to go to Rugby matches. We ate fish every Friday (like all good catholics !) and every Christmas our kitchen was a treat for the senses.I had a passion (and still do) for Irish Literature, Speech & Drama and my sisters played the violin and cello terribly ! Every Summer we rented homes on the beach either in Ardmore,Co waterford or Schull,Co Cork. I entered the Young Scientist competition and won my first cookery competition at 11 years old. I made Pineapple Upside Down Cake ! I liked to cause mischief and truthfully still do ! Manners were drilled into us. I picked blackberries in the rain. Ran away from home and only made it to my grandmothers house ! I went to my first concert in Dublin to see David Bowie. I ate raw gooseberries and suffered for it later ! I wandered the beaches looking for shells and was fascinated by tides. I can still smell the sea air. A fond memory.

I tell you this because this is who I am. I never met a leprechaun. I too watched the 'Quiet Man' with an air of nostalgia wondering who these people were !I never saw green beer until 1996 in the U.S ! Whats REAL is whats true of Ireland. The Ireland I know. You may stand at the bus stop and someone will strike up a conversation with you. This is sincere. We are a genuine people. If we are not interested we simply won't bother. Instant Gratification was not something I knew.I worked for what I had. I was by no means poor growing up but that still did not matter. I watched as my mother made one piece of meat last for two meals. This was the smart thing to do.
Although, knowing that every Monday was, 'leftover night' didn't always excite me. Stale bread was made into 'Bread & Butter Pudding' served with hot homemade custard.Education was and still is the cornerstone of the Irish Family (along with religion)

Quality resonated with my mother. I remember every Christmas getting a new 'outfit'. All four of us were fitted for our dresses,coats and trousers. Always in a boutique. My mother taught me this saying which I still live by 'Buy Cheap....Buy Twice'
Think about it for a moment. When I married, being on a bridal registry was not all that common, so I was at the mercy of our guests ! But,oh how glad I am now. This generation somehow knew that the toaster and kettle was not the gift to give. We were bestowed with gifts such as the 'Foxford Car Rug' which at the time, even I thought was a stretch. Now it is a constant companion for me. A company founded in 1892 and one that is truely associated with quality. This 100% Connemara wool rug has been to football games in Soldier Field Chicago, Rugby matches at Twickenham and even Lacrosse games in Dallas. The Pure Irish Linen tablecloth with its magnificent hem stitch has seen many a dinner party and more than its fair share of red wine spills but has washed beautifully and rewarded me with an elegant look each and every time.


Your REAL IRELAND is somewhere within you. It's what your parents taught you. Its the places you visited, the schools you went to. It's how you teach your kids and how you feed them. Its how you take pleasure from the little things. Its back to basics.
So, I guess what I am trying to say is that the REAL IRELAND is the Ireland of today. It always embraces the past and allows it to be intertwined into the present. We have come a long way. We have historically endured so much as a nation. Each and every time we bounce back. My own personal opinion is that it is in our genes. Not only do we survive but we thrive. In the words of William Butler Yeats....BEING IRISH HE HAD AN ABIDING SENSE OF TRAGEDY WHICH SUSTAINED HIM THROUGH TEMPORARY PERIODS OF JOY